2012 Honda CBR250RA Oil and Filter Change - Page 2

Also applicable to the Honda CRF250L, CRF300L, CRF300L Rally, CBR300R, CB300R, Rebel 300

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Right side of engine of 2012 Honda CBR250RA

To access the oil filter on the CBR250RA, you'll need to remove the right-side middle cowling and right-side lower cowling. (2 bolts and 1 Philips screw). Refer to the CBR250RA valve adjustment article for information on removing the middle cowling. If you're only changing the oil, you won't need to remove any of the cowling.

For the CRF250L, CRF300L/LR and CB300R, you don't need to remove anything in order to access the oil drain bolt or the oil filter cover unless, perhaps, you have a skid plate or other accessories that impede access.

Clean around the engine oil drain bolt, oil filler cap and oil filter cover (small cover on right side of engine next to the oil level sight glass) first.

Run the bike for a few minutes or so to warm the oil and resuspend any sediment, then turn it off. Be careful not to touch the exhaust.

Spread newspaper or cardboard under the bike.

Put on a pair of disposable gloves (used engine oil is toxic, so try to avoid skin contact).

Loosen the engine oil drain bolt (underside of engine) with a 12 mm socket and a ratchet or flex-bar. Place a drain pan or pail underneath the drain bolt to catch the used oil.

Engine oil drain bolt, 2012 Honda CBR250RA

Remove the engine oil drain bolt and let the oil drain into pan or pail. When you're unscrewing the drain bolt by hand, put a bit of upwards pressure on it. When you feel that it's completely unscrewed, quickly pull it down and to the side to try to avoid too much oil spilling onto your gloved hand. It’s easy to drop the oil drain bolt when removing it. Sometimes the crush washer lightly sticks to the engine case; be sure you remove the crush washer with the drain bolt; you can use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to loosen the washer after unscrewing the drain bolt a bit. When the oil has almost stopped draining, tip the bike from side to side a bit to drain any remaining oil.

Remove the oil filler cap. You can do so just after removing the oil drain bolt. Ensure that the O-ring is in good condition, otherwise you'll need to replace it. Clean the O-ring and the seating surface (underside) of the cap. Clean around the opening of the oil filler hole.

If you're going to change the oil filter too, you can proceed with that now, or you can reinstall the oil drain bolt first if it looks like the oil has finished draining. Instructions follow.

Clean the oil drain bolt (and the crush washer if reusing it). If using a magnetic drain plug, be sure to clean off the magnet. Clean off the seating surface around the oil drain hole. The service manuals state to use a new crush washer / sealing washer. I've reused some flat aluminum sealing washers over the years (after inspecting them to verify that they were still in good condition) without any issues. I always use a torque wrench when tightening a engine oil drain bolt. You'll have to make your own decision about reusing the flat crush washer. Some people say to always use a new crush washer. If in doubt, use a new one, or play it safe and always use a new one. If you buy OEM crush washers individually from a dealer, it will likely cost you quite a bit more than buying them in larger quantities from another source.

Apply engine oil to the oil drain bolt threads and seating surface (likely there will be oil on the threads and seating surface of the drain hole). Reinstall the oil drain bolt with a crush washer. Insert the drain bolt and tighten by hand (it should thread-in easy). Use an accurate torque wrench to tighten it to 24 N.m (18 lbf.ft). If you're using a beam-type torque wrench with markings on one side only, you can use a mirror resting on a small box or blocks of wood so that you can see the markings on the torque wrench. The mirror should be directly underneath the torque scale, and you should be looking at it straight-on. This is not an issue with click-type torque wrenches, but click-type torque wrenches need to be calibrated from time to time.

To change the oil filter, loosen and then remove the 4 bolts securing the oil filter cover. Some oil may dribble out (and make a mess), so I tape some paper to the engine cover below the oil filter cover to redirect the oil into the pan or pail. There is a spring between the oil filter cover and the oil filter. The spring may be held by the oil filter cover. There is also a fiber gasket between the oil filter cover and the crankcase cover.

Oil filter cover removed, 2012 Honda CBR250RA

Remove the oil filter and inspect it for excessive metal particles and other debris. If you're using an oil filter magnet, remove it from the old filter and clean it. On some of our bikes we use magnetic drain plugs. If you're not using either one, you might want to consider doing so.

Clean the sealing surfaces of the oil filter cover and the crankcase cover (remove any gasket material). Clean out any debris from where the oil filter resides.

Oil filter removed and oil filter cover gasket, 2012 Honda CBR250RA

Inspect the gasket. If the gasket is not damaged, you can likely reuse it, otherwise use a new gasket. The service manual states to use a new gasket.

If you have not already done so, reinstall the oil drain bolt (see above).

If using an oil filter magnet, attach it to the new oil filter. I pour oil into the new oil filter (attempt to fill it) before installing it to saturate the filter with oil. This is to reduce the amount of time to build up oil pressure when starting up the engine. Install the new oil filter with the “OUT-SIDE” mark facing outwards. This is critical. If you put it in backwards, you can ruin your engine. Some of the oil you poured into the oil filter may dribble out if you're not quick.

Pouring oil into new oil filter, 2012 Honda CBR250RA

Installing new oil filter into 2012 Honda CBR250RA

You can install the gasket, oil filter cover and the spring all in one go. Install the gasket between oil filter cover and engine cover in the correct position; it should be obvious which way it goes. Install the spring in the oil filter cover. There are “prongs” on the inside of the oil filter cover that hold the spring in place.

Oil filter cover with spring, 2012 Honda CBR250RA

Insert and hand-tighten (snug up) the oil filter cover bolts, and then in a diagonal pattern, torque them to 12 N.m (9 lbf.ft). I do this in stages: torque them all about half way, then all to 12 N.m. Do not over-tighten. This torque spec is from the 2012 CBR250RA owner's manual. The factory service manual specifies this same torque value for a 6 mm flange bolt (8 mm head, large flange) and nut.

If you haven't already cleaned the oil filler opening, do so now. Pour the recommended amount and type of new motorcycle engine oil into the oil filler hole (you may want to use a clean funnel), and watch the level in the sight glass as you do so. For the oil level in the sight glass to be accurate, the bike must be completely upright (vertical) and on level ground (wheel bottoms at the same height). You can have someone hold the bike vertical, use a bike stand, or repeatedly add some oil and then stand the bike up and check the level. You can also place a wood block under the side stand so the bike is almost vertical and then add oil until it maybe reaches the low-level mark (depends on how close to vertical the bike is) and then stand the bike up to verify the oil level. The level in the sight glass should be between the upper and lower marks and close to or at the upper mark. Do not overfill. If you do overfill, drain some oil out (carefully through the oil drain hole, or you may be able to suck some out through the filler hole with tubing and a syringe).

A too high oil level may affect the overall engine performance and actuation of the clutch (according to the Honda Common Service Manual). Also, if the oil level is too high the oil can become aerated (air bubbles in it) which could impact the engine lubrication system. If the oil level is too low, premature engine wear and overheating may result.

Reinstall the oil filler cap (apply oil to the O-ring).

Do the oil level check below as well as check for leaks.

Oil Level Check

With the motorcycle resting on the side stand on level ground, start the engine and let it idle for about 3 minutes and then turn it off. Wait for about 3 minutes. With the bike held upright (vertical) on level (horizontal) ground, check the oil sight glass. The oil level should be between the upper and lower marks. If the oil level is below or near the lower mark, remove the oil filler cap and add oil up to the upper oil level mark. Do not overfill. Reinstall the oil filler cap if removed.

Clean up. Dispose of the used engine oil and oil filters in a responsible way (recycling depot or some automotive service centres).

All done!


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